4:30 am, my eyes shoot open, soaked in sweat, bloated and
scorching flames from the pits of hell surging through my chest. Reassuring
myself that I just ate way too much spicy food after my strong bhang lassi and
that it would pass, I went to the rooftop in an attempt to cool down, walk it
off. Stepping onto the rooftop into the chilled desert breeze, taking deep
breaths of the fresh air trying to slow the rapid throbbing of my heart.
Stepping onto another planet. A dusty and dry world with who knows what lurking
in its arid landscape spanning the horizon. Behind stood the mighty living fort
projecting its golden hue as the sun crept up bringing it to life. Jaisalmer, a
place of a different time.
At first feeling slightly relieved, my body
was just giving me a moment of peace before it began. Mad dash to the washroom
alleviating the tension in my stomach, I hoped that it was over, but
unfortunately I knew better. I had just opened the floodgates to an eight hour
onslaught, violent and viscous as a brutal war was waged inside. I was in dire
need of the Magic School Bus. With futile attempts to keep hydrated, dry heaves
ensued, straining the muscles throughout my body. Shortly after whatever was in
me was winning and hasty decisions had to be made, choosing where the Ganga was coming from first. In between bouts I curled into the
fetal position on the cold tile floor, unable and knowing there was no real
point in going far. First case of 'Delhi Belly'.
Based on
my condition and with better sense, I probably should have and was recommended
to cancel the camel safari I had planned that afternoon. I tend not to listen
to those voices, lacking what some might call ‘better judgement’ in these
situations. Plus, this is why I came, I couldn’t let it win.
2:00 pm,
I made it alive, extremely dehydrated and in one hour trekking in the blazing
heat of the Thar desert on camelback. Finally managing to keep water in my
system and some Imodium with it, it was time to go. Forty-five minute ride into
a new part of the world to where my camel awaited me. Raja. Tying up the
bandana, I threw my leg over into the awkward wide stance that took a little
getting used to. I would be walking funny after this. Grasping the stick used
as a handle, Raja rose to his full height and the ball busting ramble through
the serenely barren wasteland began. A great expanse of nothingness, yet
somehow filled with life. Villages survived and maintained, flora emerged
through the cracked landscape and the Indian gazelles galloped through the
parched landscape.
Moving
along at a slow pace, taking in the beauty and peace of the quiet isolation,
seeing for miles, no one in sight. Something about it was therapeutic,
listening to the wind sweeping through taking your thoughts and worries with
it. The dunes resembling an oasis pond rippling out as Raja jumped in like a
pebble being thrown. In the distance on the skyline a gypsy village rose from
the sea of bronze stretched out before me. As soon as we were sighted, the children
dashed towards us as if protecting against invaders. Stopping only a dozen feet
from the august creatures of the old world, as they lowered us to the ground. Smiles
spread across their faces, waving vigorously, yelling ‘Hello’ trying to be
louder than the other. Jovial and energetic, wanting nothing but pictures and
chocolate, as they fought each other for the first shot, posing for the camera.
Using me as a jungle gym, climbing onto my back, hanging off my arms rendering
me immobile as I dragged half a dozen around attempting to make it back to my
camel. A struggle, but I made it and handed out the mere three candies I had
which started a lightning storm between them taking the attention off me so I
could escape into the vacant expanse.
As the
sun set making the sky look ablaze, stepping to the summit of a dune, a shack
appeared. Camp for the night, lowered to the ground, my knees almost buckling
for the first few strides. Enjoying the surprisingly cool desert breeze as the
sun crept down, dinner was prepared and I was starving. Over hot coals rice,
aloo gobi, mixed veg curry and chapatti cooked on searing rocks. This proves
fancy tools aren’t required to make phenomenal meals. Dragging my cot to the
center of the dunes underneath the sheet of glass. I thought I saw clear skies
in Muskoka, but nothing like this. Cloudless, stars lighting up the ocean of
black as I slowly drifted off.
Awoken by the sun ascending behind me and the chilling wind sweeping across the ever-changing terrain. Gathering the courage to step into the frozen sand, the sun rose from beneath the horizon, everything shimmering gold. Taken back, it was mesmerizing, lost in a gaze. A yell for breakfast snapped me out of it. Hard-boiled eggs, toast, jam and chai, it was time to ship out. Raja stood up and began a trot back to the jeep off this planet.
Awoken by the sun ascending behind me and the chilling wind sweeping across the ever-changing terrain. Gathering the courage to step into the frozen sand, the sun rose from beneath the horizon, everything shimmering gold. Taken back, it was mesmerizing, lost in a gaze. A yell for breakfast snapped me out of it. Hard-boiled eggs, toast, jam and chai, it was time to ship out. Raja stood up and began a trot back to the jeep off this planet.
Life in the desert was hard but
beautiful, isolated placidity. Sitting back in utter relaxation moving with the
momentum of the camel, taking in the minutes as they were my last. I couldn’t
forget this quiet peace, surrounded by nothing but what I looked for.
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